Sewing-machine



No. 607,404. Patented July l2, |898.

1. E. BERTRAND.

SEWING' MACHINE. (Application 'lle'd June S, 1897.) (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Shaet l.

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No. 607,404.v l Patented July I2, |898. E. BERTRAND.l

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led June 8, 1897.)

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Jose

(No Model.)

@Kw1/QA@ cn.. maremma, WASHINGTON n c Nrrnn- STATES ATENT rricn.

JOSEPH E. BERTRAND, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE BAY STATE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE AND PORT- LAND, MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 607,404, dated July 12, 1898.

Application filed June 8,1897. Serial No. 639,825. (No model.)

T0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Chain-Stitch lVaXed-Thread Sewing-Machines, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a speciiica'tion.

My invention relates to chain-stitch waxedthread sewing-machines, and is an improvement upon the invention described in Letters Patent No. 190,7 O9,- granted to Christian Dancel May 15, 1877; and it consists in certain novel features of construction, arrangement, and combination of parts, which will be readily understood by reference to the description of the accompanying drawings and to the claims hereto appended and in which my invention is clearly pointed out.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a front elevation of a chain-stitch waxed-thread sewingmachine embodying myinvention. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same, looking toward the left of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the opposite side of the same with a portion of the frame broken away and with the tension device attached and showing a portion of the column. Fig. 4 is a plan of the thread pull-ott and measuring mechanism drawn to an enlarged scale. Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation of the pull-off bar. Fig. 6 is an elevation of the needle-segment, the needleguide, tack-puller, and the stud upon which they are mounted, with a portion of the nose of the frame drawn to a still -larger scale. Fig. 7 is an elevation of the opposite side of the nose of the frame, with the spring for moving the needle-guide toward the point of the needle. Fig. S is a section on line x oc on Fig. 6, looking toward the right-hand upper portion of said figure. Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the tack-puller.l Fig. l0 is a plan of the tension devices with the means for releasing the tension on the thread. Fig. 11 is an inside elevation of the back gage, its bar, and the lever for moving itV toward the rear. Fig. 12 isa section plan of the same parts, the cutting plane being on line y y on Fig. 11 and showing in plan, in addition to the parts shown in Fig. 11, the spring for 'moving the back gage toward the rear. Fig. 13 is an elevation of the needle-guiding arm detached from the contiguous parts.

In the drawings, A is the base of the head of the machine, arranged to be mounted upon ,a column B, and has formed in one piece therewith or secured thereto in any suitable manner the centrally-arranged and upwardlyprojecting frame-section A', as shown:

The base A has formed thereon the two outwardly and upwardly projecting arms A2 to receive and support the columns A3 A'`,hav ing suitablebearings formed in their upper ends, in which is mounted the driving-shaft C, upon which are mounted the several actuating-cams for operating the various moving parts of the machine. v

The parts above mentioned, together with the feed-slide D, its feed point or awl b, the needle c and its carrier c', the looper d, the shoe-supporting gage e, and all other parts of the machine not more particularly referred -to or described lherein, are constructed, arran ged,and operate substantially as described in said before-cited Letters Patent and are not my invention.

E is a bar fitted to a bearing in the framesection A', so as to be movable endwise therein, and has rigidly secured toits front end the back gage f of well-known construction.

The bar E has formed `upon or rmly secured thereto the upwardly-projecting lug or plate g, which also projects outwardly from the outer face of said bar E, as shown in Fig. 12. This lug orl plate g is engaged on its front edge by the roll h, mounted upon a stud or journal 7.', adjustably set in a slot c" in the lower end of the lever F, fulcrumed at j and acted upon by the cani P, as shown in Fig; 3, tovibrate it and move said bar E vand the back gage f to and from the work, said bar and gage being moved toward the front, as the lower end of the lever F is moved in that direction, by the tension of the spring k, connected at one end to Vthe stud, c' and at its other end to the pin k', set in a fixed position at any suitable point in the outer side of said `bar E at the rear of said lever F, as shown IOO the cam to a greater or less distance, according as the stud i is adjusted in the slot t" toward or from its front end and is moved toward the front by the spring 7e until it comes in contact with the work. At all times when the lower end of the lever F is in its forward position the gage f presses against the work with a yielding pressure, except during the time that the stitch is being drawn through the work and tightened, when it is rigidly locked by the engagement of the pawl Z with the teeth of the plate Z', secured to the bar E.

The needle-carrier c' is mounted loosely upon the tubular stud or sleeve cl, secured in a fixed position in the frame-section A by a set-screw, (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 6,) and the needle-guide e' is in like manner mounted upon and movable about said stud, but is limited in its movements about said stud by the engagement of the pin f', set in said needle-guide, coming in contact with the stopshoulders m m', formed in the periphery of the head of said sleeve, as shown in Fig. G.

The bore of the stud or sleeve CZ has fitted therein the rocker-shaft g', having formed thereon at one end the laterally-projecting arm g2, provided near its movable end with a perforation to receive the pin f', and said shaft has a section thereof near its other end made square in cross-section and the end section made round and threaded to receive the nut 71.', said squared section of said shaft having fitted thereon the hub i2, to which the inner end of the flat coiled springj is secured, the opposite end of which is secured to the screw-pin m2, as shown in Figs. 7 and 8.

The tension of the springj tends to move the movable end of the needle-guide e' toward the front of the machine till the pin f' comes in contact with the shoulder m of the head of the tubular stud or sleeve d', as shown in Fig. 6. lVhen the needle-guide e', carrying the tack-puller n, has moved toward the front to the position shown in Fig. 6, the tackpuller n will have come in contact with the lasting-tack, if such a tack is in or near the path of the needle, and withdraw it sufficiently to prevent the needle coming in contact with it as said needle advances in to the work, during which further advancement of said needle the needle-guide and tack-pulley remain stationary in the position shown in Fig. 6.

When the movement of the needle and needle-carrier is reversed, after having pierced the work and engaged the loop of thread, the needle-guide and tack-puller remain in the positions shown in Fig. G until the needle is withdrawn from the work and has reached the position shown in Fig. 6, when the shoulder c2 of the needle-carrier comes in contact with the lug or shoulder e2 on the needleguide e' and moves said needleguide and tack-puller toward the rear against the tension of the spring j until the pin f comes into contact with the shoulder m', formed in the head of the said sleeve d'.

The power applied to the tack-puller for partially withdrawinga lasting-tack that may be in the path of the needle is supplied by the tension of the springj",acti11g through the shaft g', arm g2, and pin f, to move said tackpuller and needle-guide toward the Work to be acted upon.

The needle-guide e has secured to its forward face the singularly-bent plate n, the forward end of which has a dull knife-edge and has formed therein the V-shaped notch n', as shown in Fig. 9.

The notched blade of the plate n is so located relative to the needle c that its notched end will engage the head of any lasting-tack which happens to lie in the path of the needle and withdraw it to a sufficient extent to prevent the point of the needle coming in contact with said tack to its injury. This notched plate I term a tack-puller, but it does not disturb any lasting-tacks that are not in the path of the needle or in close proximity thereto, and does not as a rule pull the tackswhich it does act upon entirely out of the work, it not being desirable that it should do so.

G is a bar mounted in the bearings Il and Il and pivoted to one end of the lever I, fulcrumed upon the adjustable pin J and acted upon at its other end by the cam-path o in the disk P to reciprocate said bar, said pin J being adjustably secured in a slot in the ear J', projecting outward from the stand J2, as shown in Figs. l and 3.

The bar G is made in two parts secured together by the screws a a, and the longer portion has a cylindrical hole bored longitudinally through the same, in which is mounted the stem p of the sheave-carrier p, so as to be movable endwise therein. The outer or right-hand end of said bore is threaded to receive the set-screw q, between which and the end of said stem is inserted the coiled spring r, the tension of which tends to keep the sheave-carrier p in contact with the shoulder a' of said bar G. A small sheave s is mounted in the carrier p, and said bar G is located between the sheaves t and t' ,mounted upon fixed studs u, set in the stand 11,', which also carries the sheave fu, mounted on a horizontal stud set therein, said stand 'a' being firmly secured in a fixed position to the frame-section A', as shown in Fig. Il.

By means of the reciprocating bar G, the sheave-carrier p p', the spring fr, and the sheaves s, t, and t', and the means for reciprocating said bar the thread is held firmly between the needle and the wax-pot when the stitch is being set, and at the proper time when thread is required for forming a new stitch the tension upon the thread between the needle and the wax-pot is reduced, so that the needle will draw the necessary amount of thread from the supply.

L is a stand firmly secured to the rear edge of the base of the head of the machine and projecting to the rear therefrom, in the rear IOO IIO

IIS

end of which is set the stud 0 in a xed or non-revoluble position, said stand also being provided with the ear q', to which is pivoted the elbow-lever M.

The stud 0 has loosely mounted thereon the tension-wheel N and Ithe friction-hub N', provided with the peripheral groove fr' to receive the forked arm of the elbow-shipper lever M, said hub being pressed against the tension-wheel N by the spring O, the tension of which may be regulated by the thu mb-nut O', fitted to the threaded end of the stud o', as shown in Fig. 10. A

P2 is a lever pivoted at s to the stand L and connected at its lower end to one end of the spiral spring 32, the opposite end of which is connected to the lower end of the pendent arm s3, also secured to the stand L, as shown, and the upper end of the lever P has set therein a stud t2, upon which is mounted the thread-guiding sheave t3, and also has secured thereto the guard wire u2, which extends across the outer edge of said sheave in such close proximity to its periphery as to prevent the thread being accidentally displaced from said sheave when the thread is slack.

The long arm of the lever M has pivoted thereto one-end of a chain Q, the opposite end of which is secured to the periphery of the grooved wheel or drum R, mounted upon the horizontal stud set in the stand S, which in turn is secured to the base of the head of the machine by the bolt T, as shown in Fig. 2.

The wheel R has firmly secured thereto the handle U,bya movement of which in the direction indicated by the arrow 3 on Fig. 2 the tension upon the thread may be released when it is desired to remove a boot or shoe after completing the sewing.

The thread 2 is drawn upward from the waxpot (not shown) in aplane tangent to the rear of the tension-wheel N and is passed over and around said wheel, then over the sheave t3, carried by thelever P2, and thence to the righthand side of the sheave partially around it, thence around the left of the sheave s, thence partially around the right of the sheave t', thence over and partially around the sheave fu, and then downward to and through the eye of the looper-lever d, as shown in Figs. l, 3, and 4.

By the employment of the lever P2, spring s2, and thread-guiding sheave t5, in combination with the tension-wheel N and the reciprocating bar G, the bar G may be moved toward the left to control the tension on the thread without danger of breaking the thread when the machine' is being run at a high rate of speed and without drawing any thread from the tension-wheel or wax-pot, all of the thread being drawn from the tension-wheel N and the wax-pot by the needle, when the increased tension upon the thread is withdrawn by the right-hand movement of the bar G and the sheave s. A

The operation of my invention will be readily understood froln the foregoing without,

further explanation here.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is-

l. The combination of a needle-carrier provided with the stop-shoulder c2 and mounted upon and movable about a ixed stud or journal; a curved barbed needle set in said needle-carrier; means for oscillating said needle and carrier about said stud; the needle-guide mounted loosely upon said xed stud and provided With the lug or shoulder c2; the pin f set in said needle-guide; the tubular stud d' set in a fixed position in the frame and provided with the stop-shoulders m and fm; the rocker-shaft g; the arm g2; the springj, and the tack-pullern secured directly to, and movable only with said needle-guide.

2. The combination of the stand L; the stud o; the tension-wheel N; the friction-hub N provided with the circumferential groove fr; the elbow-lever M, the drum or grooved wheel R mounted on a fixed fulcrum, the handle U connected to said drum; and a flexible connection between said lever M and drum R substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, on this 4th day of June, A. D. 1897.

JOSEPH E. BERTRAND.

Witnesses: i

N. C. LOMBARD, GEORGE I-I. BROWN. 

